As hoped, we were captivated by the charm of St Kilda when, during our recent holiday in the Outer Hebrides, we finally achieved a long held ambition to visit. As we sailed across on Seatrek’s boat, Lochlann, from Miavaig, we spotted Minke whales, dolphins and basking sharks. It was simply breath-taking to see the islands appear, rising out of the water like jagged teeth, the grey cliffs shimmering as the sunlight reflected off the white feathers of hundreds of nesting birds.
Our skipper took us past the cliffs of Boreray before
heading into the Village Bay on Hirta. Then, it was into the tender for the
short transfer onto the island. We hiked upto The Gap before climbing up to the
summit of Conachair. We were blessed with panoramic views over to Boreray, Stac
Lee and Stac an Armin in the North and
to the distant outlines of the Hebrides themselves to the East.
Once down at the village via Mullach Mor and
Mullach Sgar , we ambled along the street, where even the sunny afternoon
couldn't dispel the lingering ghosts around the ruined houses. The voices of
the women chattering as they plucked the birds were a whisper on the wind and
the harsh cries of the men, clambering barefoot down the cliffs in search of
eggs were echoes in the calls of the skuas and gannets.
Fanciful imaginings put aside, we browsed in the museum,
saddened to read of the contributory factors that brought about the decline of
the community. Soon it was time to return
to the harbour area and the journey back to Lewis, but not before the Lochlann
skipper had taken us round the island and close into Stack Lee to admire the
thousands of sea birds soaring above us or nesting on the cliff
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